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Rancid Crabtree
20-01-08, 03:41 PM
I thought I would show the process I go through to make my hunting heads.

I use 125 grain field points and reshape them to remove the shoulders. this step may not be necessary buy It looks nice.

the blades are cut from a .039 thick bandsaw blade.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads99.jpg

the jig for slotting the field point is made of steel and clamps the point while the spacer (piece of hacksaw blade) Leaves room for the saw to pass between the two halves to cut the slot.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads94.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads95.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads96.jpg

I then polish the two pieces and make sure I have a good fit up.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads97.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads98.jpg

Next I braze the two parts together although I think solder or even J.B. Weld would suffice. I may try this on the next batch because brazing is messy and I have to quench afterward to make sure the heads are hard.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads999.jpg

After cleaning and polishing again, I use a cold bluing to protect the heads and then a light coat of oil.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads991.jpg

Finished weight, 165 grains. about 1 inch wide (15/16) and 1 1/4 long.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads992.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/broadheads993.jpg

After reading his report yesterday (right after I finished the last batch of double bevel heads http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/Sloppy_Snood/smiliespart2/5c14afe4.gif ) I just had to make some single bevel heads. It just makes so much sense. I will test both to see if I get his results.

http://www.tradgang.com/ashby/single-bevel-broadheads.pdf

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/singlebevel1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/singlebevel2.jpg

After making the first set of single bevel heads, I made a new set with a longer profile

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/2.316.jpg

As luck would have it, a neighbor brought me a fresh archery kill to process for him. I asked him if it would be ok to test my heads on his deer. He didn't mind since he wanted the whole deer ground into sausage and/or burger. So here she is. All 68 pounds of her (dressed) I would have loved to be trying this on a 150 pound deer but beggars can't be choosers.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test1.jpg

I made three shots from 10 yards with my 45 pound longbow that shoots an arrow at a blazing 142 FPS. the first two were through the ribs and the final one hit the shoulder blade at the point where the flat and the "T" meet, right near the ball joint. This is (in my opinion) the largest and thickest bone section in the upper shoulder. I admit that hitting this far forward is not a good place to aim on a live animal but things happen beyond our control. I of course hit this spot with pin point precision on purpose.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/deeranatomy.jpg

The rib shots were complete pass throughs but the shoulder shot ended up with just the fletches sticking out entrance side. I know there were no lungs in the deer but they don't offer much in the way of resistance any way. Also consider that this deer was cold and stiff as rigor mortise had set in so I consider all things equal.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test2.jpg

Right off the bat, I noticed the "S" shaped cuts that Dr. Ashby had spoke about. This was the case on both the entrance and exit holes.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test4.jpg

*** Word of caution***
When you pull the arrow back out of the deer (through a bone) and you have sharpened your broadheads on the trailing edge as well as the main edge. Make sure to keep your fingers clear even though you need to hold the deer steady while retrieving the arrow.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test3.jpg

After a brief bit of first aid, I began to skin the deer, I noticed that both of the rib shots had completely missed hitting ribs on both sides. My goal was to break a rib to see the results but I must have used up all my luck..... I mean skill on that shoulder shot.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test5.jpg

I then removed the shoulder and boned it out.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test6.jpg

Just as described by Dr. Ashby, the "S" shaped cut and the bone had split completely being held at the joint end by only some soft fibers.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test7.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/arrows/head_test8.jpg

As expected, the single bevel head is a real bone breaker/splitter. I know this is a very small deer but again, I was using a rather low power bow. Take from this what you will but I am even more pleased with the single bevel heads. This sort of thing is not necessary with todays super fast and powerful bows hunting whitetails but for those using traditional archery gear, or those going after large or dangerous game, we are looking for every advantage we can get.

PeterM
20-01-08, 05:20 PM
Awesome post mate!:D

Dale Furze
20-01-08, 05:34 PM
Great post. It is nice to come up with something of your own that can harvest animals.

Please keep us informed of your hunting stories, it is nice to hear something from the other side of the world.

Dale.

Piggy
20-01-08, 05:51 PM
Great effort thanks for sharing.

Cheers

Paul

GOLDGT
20-01-08, 05:52 PM
Nice work and very interesting post.

Cheers.

Puk
20-01-08, 06:05 PM
Very thorough work and testing. But i tell you, compared to how long it would take to make those heads, for about $4 Australian, i would look at outback broadheads, blackstumps, ribteks even. They make some good two bladers over here in OZ. That looks like it is not about the amount of time though, it looks like a labour of love.
Puk

Bowfly
20-01-08, 06:24 PM
Great post mate. Did the broadhead that passed thru the shoulder blade bend at all? they look like a fine head mate. Nice work.
Thanks
Rod

rory
20-01-08, 07:20 PM
Shmick looking heads mate, great stuff! :)

howie
20-01-08, 08:55 PM
Informative stuff buddy, you have a real passion for bowhunting, thanks heaps........Howie

dazza
20-01-08, 09:19 PM
nice work ,great heads,they remind me of heads i used to make years ago except i used flatened out tee spoons and used 303 projectiles.They done the job on hares and rabbits.Well done.

Antarcher
20-01-08, 09:51 PM
Another great post. Very informative. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us. It will be great to see you take an animal with your own heads, out in the field.

Glenn
20-01-08, 10:16 PM
Good post Rancid, looks like an involved process but worth the extra time. The single bevel broadhead is a very good head, I am going to give them a whirl next time I chase some pigs in the Channel Country...Glenn...

Rancid Crabtree
21-01-08, 01:38 AM
Never had a bend in any of my tests.

Great post mate. Did the broadhead that passed thru the shoulder blade bend at all? they look like a fine head mate. Nice work.
Thanks
Rod