carbon arrow/minimum weight

[adam]

Does any one know what the minimum safe arrow weight is for a 55ld recurve with glass limbs :?:

Thanks Adam

[Axe]

Adam, took this from my earlier thread:
Arrow weight, some profess that minimum 6grns per pound of bow is enough, B/Widow insist on minimum 8grns to maintain warranty. I am a firm believer in heavy arrows are better for hunting so I tend to have mine at about 10 - 11grns per pound of bow draw weight.

IMO I wouldn't use less than 8grns per pound so @ 55# = 440grn, I would go so far as to suggest you get them to around 500grn :)

[adam]

Thanks mate.

Using the carbons with fly screen tude up the guts and 145 grain heads so plenty of weight there.

But thinking of shooting lighter arrows for Competition

Does any know what those cheap carbons from hoddywell would weight 30inches, feathers, nock and 125grain points :?: and there got a gloss coat aswell.
Don't want much do I :wink:

[HOOD]

Adam if you have a set of digital kitchen scales you can get a rough gauge of what they weigh in grains.
I think it's 15.234 or 15.432 grains = 1 gram, I'm not 100% sure but thats pretty close to what it is.

[Piggy]

If you are refering to the CT Whitetail Hunters there specs are
25/45 5.9gpi (grains per inch) but i'm sure you know that :wink:
35/55 6.9gpi
40/65 7.9gpi
65/80 9.5gpi
these are bare shafts
the nocks are specified at 12.8
insert 13.2


Hope this helps

[Pete]

That would be: 1 gram = 15.432grains. close enough mick.
i got this handy conversion site from ozbow:
http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

Pete F

[HOOD]

That would be: 1 gram = 15.432grains. close enough mick.
i got this handy conversion site from ozbow:
http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

Pete F

Thanks Pete i knew I was close :)

[HOOD]

But thinking of shooting lighter arrows for Competition

:wink:
If you are shooting instinctive , why would you want to change for Comp.? Then you would have to learn all over again with the different weight. Better off sticking to what you know rather than changing it .
Unless you were to use sights 8)
Archery is all about consistency :wink:
Get to know your gear at ALL ranges and stick with it :D

Thats exactly why I shoot the same weight arrows for target as I use for hunting (472 grains from the compound and 540grains with the curve). I do cope a lot of crap from other club members for shooting such heavy arrows for target, but I don't give a hoot as I'm happy doing what I'm doing and it works for me.

[Cher Lacey]

Adam - go for it lad. Of course people will stir you but heck, just throw it back at them. Safety is the main issue to address.

First thing is to check with the bowyer or company who made your particular bow - they should be able to give you a guide as to what they guarantee. The average 'light target' shaft would be around 8 - 10 gpi but as said, go to the source.

Second...make sure the SPINE is correct for that poundage at your draw. With all the carbons and carbon composites available these days, it isn't too hard to find a shaft that is in the spine group you need, but with a much lighter mass weight.

Third - Switching shafts weights means you NEED a LOT of practice.

I have hunting shafts that come in around 14.6 grains per inch which I use on the ACS CX Longbow from OL Adcock.
Then I have some ACE's that work out just under 6 grains per inch for use with the same bow.
OL is pretty efficient and doesn't cause me any problems regardless of the weight changes, however you are likely to notice a bit more hand shock when you switch to a lighter shaft - depends much on the bow itself.

I checked with OL first and he said I'd be fine down to around 4gpi for this bow, however I'm finding myself more consistent when I stick around 6gpi.

Biggest hassle is not to forget just which arrows you're using.
For me, I try to remember my main 'straight' point of aim.
i.e. with the ACE's shooting off OL, I can just point (straight T formation) and shoot out to 50 metres.
However, for the heavy hickorys, I can only go out to around 35 metres before adjusting my aim.

Practice, practice...and more practice (of course, I never seem to get enough of this).
I get a fair amount of practice with the hickories, but the 'toy shafts' are still looking rather too neat which is why I've not taken them out to a competition yet.

Just be sure that you are SURE of your abilities before hitting a competition round - otherwise at best you'll be spending a lot of time behind the target looking for strays...BE SAFE AND SURE.

if you go for arrows with as much extreme as mine, payment to the piper is high before you're clear to play with the other boys and girls.

Cher 8)

[ed]

I do cope a lot of crap from other club members for shooting such heavy arrows for target, but I don't give a hoot as I'm happy doing what I'm doing and it works for me.

you cop crap from them!!? I get endless crap about shooting fenceposts! Most of the guys have arrows so short they could not add a broadhead to them as they would not be able to get to full draw. Then most are shooting light comp arrows - what is the reason behind that I just don't know. I'll stick with you and coach, practice with what you will hunt with, setup wise. Buggered if I want to get better at target and then choose a less practiced setup for hunting - can't see the logic to it.