PDA

View Full Version : First time fletching,long time lookin'


No eye deer
06-05-05, 10:35 PM
Howdy ,
Anyone point me in the direction of a site for beginner fletchers? Just got a jig, some vanes, and some glue but as the signature suggests, no eye deer.

Mark

woody
07-05-05, 03:08 PM
http://www.huntersfriend.com/arrowhelp/arrow-selection-4.htm
http://www.thebowman.com/tb_fletchbohning.htm

If you choose to fletch with plastic vanes, you must wipe the base of the vane with acetone (nail polish remover) or detergent or methylated spirits, as they have residues of mould release agents, which will prevent a good bond between fletch and shaft.

It pretty hard to glue "grease" and also make sure shafts are free of finger grease, ie, very clean, also.

pete w
08-05-05, 11:59 PM
Woody has the right idea.But hold off on polish remover.Some of them have oils in them .Straight acetone is better.Laquer thinner is good too.
Many Rubbing alcolhols also have oils.
Wipe the shafts with the slovents too for the best results.

No eye deer
09-05-05, 07:32 AM
Yep, I'm using MEK to wipe em down and at the moment I'm using generic superglue to stick em.
I used them yesterday and 1 vane fell off. But I have also stuffed up some of the spacing of the vanes.Ya know index vane in wrong spot etc. So I'm not ready to blame tools yet!!
I'll get back to refletching some of them and working out what I did wrong.

Mark

Warlocke
09-05-05, 09:27 AM
I use automotive thinners to clean the base of the vanes.

Also, I find the shafts need a light sanding and a clean with the thinners (acetone) before glueing the vanes.

Don't forget to allow the thinners to dry fully before glueing.

Try the gel super glue, I think it works better than the thin stuff if your jig does not have a firm hold between the shaft and vane.

No eye deer
09-05-05, 05:22 PM
Yes Warlocke,
I think that PART of my problem may be that the jig doesnt hold the vane firmly enough against the shaft.
Or maybe I'm doing something wrong.I've lost a couple*(4) more arrows, so I'll get to do some more practicing! Yay.

Mark

Kimall
09-05-05, 05:47 PM
Mark I dont clean the vanes or the shafts and never had a vane come off by themselves so give me a call on 07 46348667 one night and I can go through the process for you.
Cheers KIM

Sparra
09-05-05, 06:31 PM
Don't glue your knocks in and you can turn your arrows to suit your bow...
I use 454 Loktite and the only trouble i have is getting the fletches off when they need replacing!!!

Neil @ OUTLAW
09-05-05, 07:13 PM
Kimall has the right idea. I have (for a long time now) been using Loctite 401 (or any other cyanocryric glue - that is one that dries when the oxygen has been removed not like normal glues that cure when they react with O2) anyway for carbon shafts just sand them back a little with a course sand paper this prepares the surface well to react with the glue.

Whack them on a with the glue i am using once i have done all three vanes its ready to shoot by the time i knock the arrow walk 15 paces to my backyard a sling an arrow down range. THis glue is that quick and rock solid. Dura vanes are good but my hunting partner uses another type (cannot remember the name) but ill be switching to them soon.....

happy making !!

Neil
Darwin NT

Barry
10-05-05, 12:15 PM
Loctite 401 definately works well, I have also been using the super glue gel which works fine if the arrow is treated properly.

One question where do you get the locktite 401?? Last lot came from my father but I cant seem to find it at Bunnings etc???

HOOD
10-05-05, 05:05 PM
Bazz I get mine from a mate for free. :P :P

I use 406 for vanes and feathers and 401 for the inserts.

And an idea is to keep any super glue of this type in the fridge or frezzer as they last longer that way.

Hood 8)