What bow

[Piggy]

I used to shoot a curve some 20 years ago and have been thinking of buying one, I would be interested if people could tell me their thoughts on which bow is best.
I intend to buy the best i can and am currently shooting a hoyt supertec at 65#

[Glenn]

If you are shooting that sort of bow Piggy you might want to look at the Huntsman take down recurve by Mark Kimber...

[humphrey]

well piggy, next time we go hunting id be happy to bring my curve for ya to have a shoot of. :D ive just started a bit of club shooting down here and of the few people that have had a shot, they reckon its an excellent bow.
its a martin x-200 55#@28 and has virtually no stack out to 30 inches.
and at $450 there well priced.
they say they come with a flipper rest but im just shooting mine straight off the shelf and it seems to shoot really well.
http://www.martinarchery.com/?page=bows&file=x-200
p.s. i also had a shot of a couple of other bows there and some were worth well into the thousands, and to me they felt no different, nor shot any different.

[Piggy]

Thanks guy,s i appreciate the advice

[Axe]

I agree with Glenn, get a "Huntsman", I have one , top shelf, :D IMHO other top quality bows - Black Widow (also have 2 of these), Border, Morrison. But along with the quality & name comes the price tag. Having said this a $200 bow will take game same as a $2000 bow, might not do it for as long is all :)

[HOOD]

yeah support your local bow makers I say, if ya dont' mind waiting 8 months or so to get one of these beauties. So maybe the $200 bow will do in the meantime while waiting for the other.

Hood 8)

[Axe]

What local bow ya us'n Hood? 8)

[Barry]

Oh man, some days Im not sure I can wait to start collecting more traditional bows.

Only thing stopping me is my damn lotto tickets are always faulty.

Giving myself a few years sticking to compounds (until the wife forgets about the money I have spent on them at leat :lol: ).

My list goes something like:

Newell 'Defiant' longbow
Huntsman Recurve
Cliff Turpin Long Bow & Self Bow
Would really like a Mongolian Horse bow, was very impressed after shooting a mates.


Would of course also like a Black Widow and about half a dozen others but they can wait :wink:

[HOOD]

What local bow ya us'n Hood? Cool
:oops: :oops:
Well Axe I havn't got one YET. As Barry said gotta get the wife on side before I can shell out $800 odd bucks on a nice huntsmann or the likes.

A Widow is on my list as well as one of Glenns bows, a huntsmann, Maygar........... oh to dream :roll:

Hood 8)

[feral66]

Well piggy if money is no option I suggest a Black Widow, I myself have two a MAIII Autum Oak 64" 55#@28" and a 54" 63#@28" SIW Ironwood and they are the smoothest shooting Bow I've ever shot and they do not stack. And they spit the arrows like lighting

[HOOD]

they are the smoothest shooting Bow I've ever shot and they do not stack. And they spit the arrows like lighting

That is true as Allan Murray from my club has one it's timber is Ironbark not sure of length or model but is 51# @28" and I was fortunate enough to have a shot, I like it I like it a lot. :lol:

Hood 8)

[mcsteve]

id love a hoyt gamemaster recurve,one day,bloody pricey

[MrRecurve]

Mate, youll need a touch more than 800 for a huntsman, Marks bows start at 1250. As for the widows, they are around the same price depending on the model, however there are local bows that are more beautiful, MUCH more custom, and faster too! I would highly recommend a Huntsman.

[outback preditor]

ive got a black widow for sale.
2002 TFIII. autum oak.
58" 63@28
new condition. buetiful looks and shoots better. very fast.
soft padded bow case.
$1000. bargin.

[mcsteve]

howdy
im looking at getting a samick one peice recurve shb 60#
does anyone know how these bows perform?

[humphrey]

depending on your draw mcsteve, samicks are notorius for stacking HEAPS! i am yet to draw a 50-60# samick that didn't stack less than 15lbs, and my draw is only about 30 inches.
im shooting a basic martin x-200 and i reckon its pretty good. it all depends on how many coins you wanna shell out, but if i was to buy a new bow id fork out about a g for the top-o-the-line fred bear bows. but for around $400-600 martin are amazing value for money.

[mcsteve]

[quote="humphrey"] samicks are notorius for stacking HEAPS! i am yet to draw a 50-60# samick that didn't stack less than 15lbs, thanks humphrey,
dont want to or not allowed to spend a lot,and WHAT IS STACKING?
only shot a cheap arse compound before
still would like a hoyt recurve but too price for now

[Axe]

Mc,
What's your draw length?, if it's 28" (which is what a non custom made bow is rated at) or less, stack shouldn't be a drama, If however you draw 30 or more it could become more of a problem the shorter the bow.

So...bear in mind as a rule the longer the bow length the less stacking becomes an issue, (smoother ) so if you draw long & are concerned about stack, IMHO, buy a bow around, say, 62" rather than 58"

Also, remember if you buy a bow 28"@60#, for every inch you draw past 28" the bow will be increased by approx. 3# eg 30"draw = approx 66#, same if you draw less, you lose approx.3# per inch. These are approx figures bows vary slightly, could be 2# or 4# or in between, you get the picture.
:wink:
You asked what is stacking, here it is in simple terms:

When drawing the bow near the end of your draw, the weight feels to gain too quickly and abruptly, so it is not smooth. It's more a case of discomfort than performance

Hope this helps :)

[humphrey]

so instead of drawing say the 60# its rated at, at a 28inch draw, you may be holding 70# for instance if your draw is longer than the 28 its rated at.
some bows might not stack at all out to 31inches, and some will increase as much as 8-10 pounds per inch after 28 inches.

[mcsteve]

thanks axe and humprey
very good info and a great help

my draw length is 28" so i shouldnt have any trouble with most it seems
when its stacking,and poundage goes up,does this mean it has more power behind the arrow?
or is it not noticable

[humphrey]

it would have a little bit extra, but not much. the extra draw length would make a differance, but cause you would then shoot a longer and therefore heavier arrow it would kinda counter-act the other.

[tracker]

when its stacking,and poundage goes up,does this mean it has more power behind the arrow?

That's the issue/problem matey. When a bow "stacks" it has reached the point where you are forced to pull MANY extra pounds for very LITTLE extra "ooomph" in your arras. :D

My hunting mate bought a Samick takedown recurve <Mind30?> as his first hunting bow and it was a nice bow for the price I thought.. around AUS$220. His drawlength was around 28 inches and he had no problems with stacking.

Mick.

[Axe]

some bows might not stack at all out to 31inches, and some will increase as much as 8-10 pounds per inch after 28 inches.

Interesting :? I never heard about or seen one :o but..... certainly like to see it, reckon they'd have to be fairly short and, or poorly made to gain 8 -10# per inch after 28" :roll:

Any way Mc, if your trying to save $$, the Samick does the job, plenty out there with no probs, the fact you draw 28", as you say, shouldn't have any trouble.

[humphrey]

axe, im only going off some bows i had a draw of at a shop. they were both samick 60 inch bows and the 40# measured 54# at my 29.5-30inch draw, and the 50# was something like 67#, so doing the math it works out to be about 8# per inch. they had a real spot in them where they seemed to stop, and then got alot heavier really quickly after that.

[Glenn]

The more a bow stacks the less efficent it is. With the recurve it is usually the point where the recurves are starting to unwind past the bows maxium length and the bow stops opening up during the draw, past this point the bow starts to get shorter creating stack and the string angle is also becoming lesser.
This is when the force draw curve goes up sharply and the efficency of the bow drops off...Glenn...