Bowmancam
02-07-05, 07:49 PM
Well the other day Mcsteve asked for some photos of how i sharpen my broadheads. Well here they are with a description of my processes.
First of all this is the way I sharpen my broadheads .There probably are far better techniques but i've found i can get my 'heads' shaving sharp in a small amount of time using this method.
A word of caution : Care must be taken when sharpening any blade. A severe injury could be only a slip away. PLEASE TAKE EXTREME CARE I will not be held responsible for any injury incurred. I have never done any real damage to myself and believe my method is quite safe.
First of all a run down on the gear i use.
My main tool is a panel-beaters file. Costs about $20 and lasts ages. I have tried other files and found them to be nowhere near as effective. The file i use removes quite a lot of steel and should not be over-used. Dave Pender sells these files already set up on a block called "the razorz edge" for 40 odd dollars .( im not sure were you can buy them.) The next piece of equipment is just an old busted arrow shaft (about 25cm long with insert) to attatch the broadhead to. On top in the photo below is my leather strop. Just a piece of leather about 45cm long and about 12 wide. I also use a heavy polishing compound block which i rub on my leather strop for the final polish. I also use it as a block under my file to keep it off the bench whilst filing. A tub of vasolene to coat finished heads to prevent them from rusting. Last of all, of course you need good broadheads.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/equipment.jpg
First step is to obviously attatch a broadhead to your sharpening shaft. I sharpen the inside edge (edge closest to your body) first. I set my file up on my polishing compoud block. The file slightly bites into the compound and remains quite still. With my left hand i hold the top of the file. Then with some pressure ( not alot) i drag the head towards my body while pushing down on the blade with my thumb on my right hand. The first few passes feels like nothing is happening and your b/h seems to skate over without the removal of any steel. Keep doing this and within a few strokes you will feel and notice the steel starting to be removed. Inspect the head and make sure you are removing steel from the entire length of the blade and not just near the tip, then adjust your stroke as needed. When doing the inside edge ive found no more than 20 strokes are needed. I then turn the b/h over and repeat the process.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/insideedge.jpg
The outside edge is a bit tricky. I tend to hold the sharpening shaft further away from the head and use more strokes than mentioned for the inside edge because its harder to apply pressure. Somewhere around 30 light/medium pressure strokes, again making sure the entire length is being evenly worked.I then turn the b/h over and repeat the process.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/outsideedge.jpg
So now we have a roughly sharp b/h. The next step requires a bit of care to get the shaving edge required. I re-do the inside edge but this time with very light pressure and very few strokes (no more than say 8 strokes) I stress it must be light pressure. Now you must look at your b/h closely whilst drawing it towards you. You should start to see a feathered edge appearing. Under this feathered edge is the "razor sharp edge". Now turn the broadhead over and repeat so both sides have a fine feathered edge. Sometimes the edge will curl off on its own and will be thinner than a hair (see photo) .
The black line is pointing to a thin sliver that was the feathered edge, note how thin it is. The yellow line points to what would be the new razor sharp edge. Under the red line you can just make out the feathered edge.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/broadheadsliver.jpg
Now comes the stropping. I rub the polishing compound onto my piece of leather. Then i hold it, whilst standing, with it laying lengthways down my thigh and quickly but evenly give the b/h a quick up and down on the leather (about 5 seconds on each edge). Repeat this on both sides. Then, very carefully, wipe off any excess compound on the head with a rag. Care must be taken as this edge should now be shaving sharp. To test, simply try the edge on you arm or leg hair and it should shave with the full length of the blade. If it doesnt go back to the start and try again, but as you've removed most of the steel required, each above step should be done with less strokes and pressure.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/strop.jpg
The final step is to coat your b/h in a thin layer of vasolene to prevent rusting, then carefully unscrew the head. If possible use pliers as the b/h is very slippery after the vaso has been wiped on.
Just a gentle stroke and the hair just falls off. Note the broadhead looks blurry because its covered with hair..
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/shave.jpg
Well thats it, grab another head and do it all again ;) ... it might seem like a fussy process but it takes about 1-2 minutes to completly sharpen a head from scratch, once you've done a few. The more you do, the better at it you become and it actualy becomes quite easy.
To me a shaving sharp broadhead is a must for ethical bowhunting. I believe that close enough isn't good enough with broadheads. If it aint razor sharp i will never hunt with it.
Hope this helps a few people to get those broadheads shaving sharp.
Happy hunting,
Cheers, Cam
First of all this is the way I sharpen my broadheads .There probably are far better techniques but i've found i can get my 'heads' shaving sharp in a small amount of time using this method.
A word of caution : Care must be taken when sharpening any blade. A severe injury could be only a slip away. PLEASE TAKE EXTREME CARE I will not be held responsible for any injury incurred. I have never done any real damage to myself and believe my method is quite safe.
First of all a run down on the gear i use.
My main tool is a panel-beaters file. Costs about $20 and lasts ages. I have tried other files and found them to be nowhere near as effective. The file i use removes quite a lot of steel and should not be over-used. Dave Pender sells these files already set up on a block called "the razorz edge" for 40 odd dollars .( im not sure were you can buy them.) The next piece of equipment is just an old busted arrow shaft (about 25cm long with insert) to attatch the broadhead to. On top in the photo below is my leather strop. Just a piece of leather about 45cm long and about 12 wide. I also use a heavy polishing compound block which i rub on my leather strop for the final polish. I also use it as a block under my file to keep it off the bench whilst filing. A tub of vasolene to coat finished heads to prevent them from rusting. Last of all, of course you need good broadheads.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/equipment.jpg
First step is to obviously attatch a broadhead to your sharpening shaft. I sharpen the inside edge (edge closest to your body) first. I set my file up on my polishing compoud block. The file slightly bites into the compound and remains quite still. With my left hand i hold the top of the file. Then with some pressure ( not alot) i drag the head towards my body while pushing down on the blade with my thumb on my right hand. The first few passes feels like nothing is happening and your b/h seems to skate over without the removal of any steel. Keep doing this and within a few strokes you will feel and notice the steel starting to be removed. Inspect the head and make sure you are removing steel from the entire length of the blade and not just near the tip, then adjust your stroke as needed. When doing the inside edge ive found no more than 20 strokes are needed. I then turn the b/h over and repeat the process.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/insideedge.jpg
The outside edge is a bit tricky. I tend to hold the sharpening shaft further away from the head and use more strokes than mentioned for the inside edge because its harder to apply pressure. Somewhere around 30 light/medium pressure strokes, again making sure the entire length is being evenly worked.I then turn the b/h over and repeat the process.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/outsideedge.jpg
So now we have a roughly sharp b/h. The next step requires a bit of care to get the shaving edge required. I re-do the inside edge but this time with very light pressure and very few strokes (no more than say 8 strokes) I stress it must be light pressure. Now you must look at your b/h closely whilst drawing it towards you. You should start to see a feathered edge appearing. Under this feathered edge is the "razor sharp edge". Now turn the broadhead over and repeat so both sides have a fine feathered edge. Sometimes the edge will curl off on its own and will be thinner than a hair (see photo) .
The black line is pointing to a thin sliver that was the feathered edge, note how thin it is. The yellow line points to what would be the new razor sharp edge. Under the red line you can just make out the feathered edge.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/broadheadsliver.jpg
Now comes the stropping. I rub the polishing compound onto my piece of leather. Then i hold it, whilst standing, with it laying lengthways down my thigh and quickly but evenly give the b/h a quick up and down on the leather (about 5 seconds on each edge). Repeat this on both sides. Then, very carefully, wipe off any excess compound on the head with a rag. Care must be taken as this edge should now be shaving sharp. To test, simply try the edge on you arm or leg hair and it should shave with the full length of the blade. If it doesnt go back to the start and try again, but as you've removed most of the steel required, each above step should be done with less strokes and pressure.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/strop.jpg
The final step is to coat your b/h in a thin layer of vasolene to prevent rusting, then carefully unscrew the head. If possible use pliers as the b/h is very slippery after the vaso has been wiped on.
Just a gentle stroke and the hair just falls off. Note the broadhead looks blurry because its covered with hair..
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y32/bowmancam/shave.jpg
Well thats it, grab another head and do it all again ;) ... it might seem like a fussy process but it takes about 1-2 minutes to completly sharpen a head from scratch, once you've done a few. The more you do, the better at it you become and it actualy becomes quite easy.
To me a shaving sharp broadhead is a must for ethical bowhunting. I believe that close enough isn't good enough with broadheads. If it aint razor sharp i will never hunt with it.
Hope this helps a few people to get those broadheads shaving sharp.
Happy hunting,
Cheers, Cam