adam
11-07-05, 10:52 PM
This is a quiver I made up today in my spare time,
I used a piece of 90mm pvc pipe for the frame, around 25inches long.
You can see here I have marked the pvc/frame for cutting. I made the frame shorter then the arrow by around 15% so itÃ*s lighter, the fabric can droop to the length of what ever arrows you are using, its not so out there, and its quieter as well. I also cut another good section out that you can see marked, making the quiver lighter, quieter and easier to strap to most back packs.
Marked for cutting, I used a drill and jigsaw but most saws will cut pvc to shape. The rounded edge shapes will be stronger then square.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting081.jpg
Alright give the cuts a good sand over to remove sharp edges.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting087.jpg
Pencil out a piece of plywood or similar to fit the bottom of the quiver, you want it to fit tight so cut it a bit larger if anything and sand it back to fit. This will pull up any broadheads from going into your leg or foot. The pvc pipe caps are easily broken so if you use one bulk it up with some plywood, I just used the ply.
Neatly drill 3 holes around the pvc pipe and into the plywood once in place. The drill size should be just smaller then your screw size so when you drive then in they come up tight. Using a bit of glue would hurt neither.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting088.jpg
ThatÃ*s the frame done; now we want a bit of material to conceal the quiver frame. I sowed a few small bits of Asat hankies together but any strong material will do. Check out spotlight for some camo.
Pull the fabric around the pipe and mark it with a pencil. Then another mark around 110cm for the full length of the quiver, this 110cm will allow you to sow the top for a pull cord and tie a knot in the bottom end.
Do all your sowing with the fabric inside out and use the strongest sowing pattern your machine will allow.
First sow up the pull cord pocket. Note this is a picture after the full length has been sow, when sowing the pull cord pocket the material should be 1 flat piece.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting091.jpg
Sow the length of the quiver bar the pull cord pocket and the last 10cm of the bottom(opposite end to pull cord pocket). Turning the material outside-in it should start looking like this. Ignore the cross stitch were I joined the two small bits of material.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting083.jpg
Starting to look like a good sleeve.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting085.jpg
We should have a nice tight fit when pulling the material over. The end with 10cm not sown is the bottom and will go at the plywood end. Simply cut the material at the bottom hole (retrieving hole) leaving 15mm of over hanging material to glue in the inside of the frame. I glued the material around the edges and on the inside with hot melt but any plastic-fabric glue will work.
Then run a bit of padding around the top of the frame and the bottom to silence the quiver. I put a thick padding were the heads rest in the quiver as well as a bit on the sides. On the side of the hole were the arrows are removed, I put a bit of extra padding there also.
Padding at the top of the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting090.jpg
Arrow hole padding and inside padding.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting118.jpg
Arrow loading end, or they can be pushed in from the arrow hole.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting120.jpg
The last things to do is strap it to your pack, and tie a knot in the bottom end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting093.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting094.jpg
Very easy to use mates.
Adam
I used a piece of 90mm pvc pipe for the frame, around 25inches long.
You can see here I have marked the pvc/frame for cutting. I made the frame shorter then the arrow by around 15% so itÃ*s lighter, the fabric can droop to the length of what ever arrows you are using, its not so out there, and its quieter as well. I also cut another good section out that you can see marked, making the quiver lighter, quieter and easier to strap to most back packs.
Marked for cutting, I used a drill and jigsaw but most saws will cut pvc to shape. The rounded edge shapes will be stronger then square.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting081.jpg
Alright give the cuts a good sand over to remove sharp edges.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting087.jpg
Pencil out a piece of plywood or similar to fit the bottom of the quiver, you want it to fit tight so cut it a bit larger if anything and sand it back to fit. This will pull up any broadheads from going into your leg or foot. The pvc pipe caps are easily broken so if you use one bulk it up with some plywood, I just used the ply.
Neatly drill 3 holes around the pvc pipe and into the plywood once in place. The drill size should be just smaller then your screw size so when you drive then in they come up tight. Using a bit of glue would hurt neither.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting088.jpg
ThatÃ*s the frame done; now we want a bit of material to conceal the quiver frame. I sowed a few small bits of Asat hankies together but any strong material will do. Check out spotlight for some camo.
Pull the fabric around the pipe and mark it with a pencil. Then another mark around 110cm for the full length of the quiver, this 110cm will allow you to sow the top for a pull cord and tie a knot in the bottom end.
Do all your sowing with the fabric inside out and use the strongest sowing pattern your machine will allow.
First sow up the pull cord pocket. Note this is a picture after the full length has been sow, when sowing the pull cord pocket the material should be 1 flat piece.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting091.jpg
Sow the length of the quiver bar the pull cord pocket and the last 10cm of the bottom(opposite end to pull cord pocket). Turning the material outside-in it should start looking like this. Ignore the cross stitch were I joined the two small bits of material.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting083.jpg
Starting to look like a good sleeve.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting085.jpg
We should have a nice tight fit when pulling the material over. The end with 10cm not sown is the bottom and will go at the plywood end. Simply cut the material at the bottom hole (retrieving hole) leaving 15mm of over hanging material to glue in the inside of the frame. I glued the material around the edges and on the inside with hot melt but any plastic-fabric glue will work.
Then run a bit of padding around the top of the frame and the bottom to silence the quiver. I put a thick padding were the heads rest in the quiver as well as a bit on the sides. On the side of the hole were the arrows are removed, I put a bit of extra padding there also.
Padding at the top of the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting090.jpg
Arrow hole padding and inside padding.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting118.jpg
Arrow loading end, or they can be pushed in from the arrow hole.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting120.jpg
The last things to do is strap it to your pack, and tie a knot in the bottom end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting093.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v388/bowhunting/randomhunting094.jpg
Very easy to use mates.
Adam