price on woods

[Arra Slinger]

Hey fellas i just wanted some info on where and how much you pay for your woods, over here they are nearly $4 is this the norm :shock:

Thanks
Ben

[adam]

Hey ben.

I just got 12 poc from Hoddywell 60# spined and 10+=weight $3.75 not cheap really. I use to shoot ozwoods $1.75 a shaft(heavy and strong)
I think Jeff challacombe's mate sells a good shaft for like $1 in aus.

Adam

[Glenn]

Haven't bought a shaft for years, still shooting poc's I bought 20 years ago, make all of my hunting shafts myself these days. $4.00 sounds like a lot of money but if they are good quality, spined matched and weighed they would be worth that much...Glenn...

[HOOD]

Here ya go Arra try this guy.

http://www.ozbow.net/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2153

[ed]

according to the links from OZBOW I need arrows spined at between 105 and 115!! Anybody know where I can get some of them?!

[Cher Lacey]

Goodness Ed! What sort of set-up you got there?
Sounds like you're shooting weights up around Dr Ed's bows.

What's the bow poundage, draw length...and whats the arrow length (to back of point)? Do you know how many grains per inch were you hoping for there? Broadhead weight and how much feather you looking to use?
Are you setting up to hunt one particular animal? or just general use?

Darn, I'm starting to think that no one has read my review on wood shafting (as well as the carbon shafts from Alaska Bowhunting supplies) in the last issue of AA...

These are the 'heavies':
(all in the same spine range)
Laminated Birch averages around 21.1 Grains per inch
Hickory 22.3 GPI
Purple Heart 22.7 GPI
Ipe 28.7 GPI

Lighter shafts (but still in the same spine group)
POC avg = 14.4 GPI
Fir = 16.4 GPI
Ash = 19.3 GPI

You may want to minus a grain or two because all my shafts here were 1st sealed with Penetrol and then given five coats of marine-grade polyurethane mixed 3:1 with penetrol. However, the above gives you a guide to start at.

All these woods are available at Allegheny Mountain Arrowwoods
www.arrowwoods.com (guys name is Bill Bonczar).
If you're choosing Hickory, I prefer the Tapered Hickory shafts from Troy Breeding at 'Sticks & Feathers' www.sticksandfeathers.com
Both companies give excellent service and products, but my Hickory shafts are proving the hardest to break (I can't afford to keep buying new shafts so I want one that doesn't mind rocks, bones etc).

The Ash shafts I've used on hunts all broke (mind, that's probably due to the animal falling on it).

Haven't broken any of my Lam Birch - but also haven't taken an animal with those shafts yet...going hunting next month...will make note to test them.

The Lam Birch is also an excellent all round shaft, moderate price, usually much straighter from the shop and easy to straighten anyway.

Hope that helps some. Both Troy and Bill are straight talking and not just 'out to sell' - just crazy trads that are always willing to assist...and really know what they're talking about.

Cher 8)

[Axe]

Ben sounds about right, last lot of 100 I bought from Arhcery Academy S.A. about 18mths ago, cost me $2.95 each :)

[ed]

thx Cher, info on the weight per inch is real handy.

Not shooting that heavy with this bow - 67# just a bit of a knuckle dragger with a 32inch draw.
Will need some even heavier soon though as do have heavier bows, but start with woods for the little-un. looking at 150g head minimum (broadheads and fieldpoints) and have been using five inch parabolic fletches.

[Cher Lacey]

Ed,
I'll come back to you in a day or two.
That draw length of yours could make it hard to find woods for you.
I THINK Troy from Sticks & Feathers can assist. Had been planning to call him today but missed the time difference.
When I do catch him, I'll mention this topic as well and let you know what he suggests.

Need to catch up with Bill from Allegheny Mountain, so I'll check with him about the longer length shafting.

Cher

[Glenn]

Ed, lots of things dictate the spine for a certian bow. There are two spines for arrows the fisrt and least important is static spine as measured on a spine jig which is what your are looking at on the charts and the second and the only one that is relevent is dynamic spine which is amount a shaft will bend or deflect when being shot through the bow.
With dynamic spine you can have two shafts made up into arrows exactly the same that are the same spine on the spine jig and if one weighs 9 grains per inch and the other is 13 grains per inch the 13 gpi arrow will bend more than the 9gpi arrow because there is more mass weight to be propelled by the bow. So this means that the 9gpi arrow will shoot stiffer through the bow. Change the weignt of the of the broadhead and this changes the dynamic spine of the arrow even though the static spine is unchanged. Heavier the broadhead the the more the arrow will bend the lighter the head the less it will bend.
The dynamic spine will vary from bow to bow as some bows are more efficent than than others. You could have two bows, different make but the same weight and one could be 95% efficent and the other 85% efficent and they will require two different spined shafts for the same archer, this is where kenetic energy is useful to determine the efficency of a bow and thta's all it's good for and monentum gives you the efficency of the arrow. You have to do a of bit of work to find out the right shaft for any bow. You can manipulate things by using more feather and the amount of helical you use, and you can also effect the spine by tapering the shafts as well.
Just a brief outline, it sounds complicated but it isn't very hard at all...Glenn...

[humphrey]

geez glenn, i thought trad was all about keeping it simple :lol:

but thats good info, and something ill have to remember. :wink:

[Sparra]

Gaday Glenn...when tappering shafts do you tapper from front to back or viseversa...
Regards...Sparra

[Glenn]

Humphery traditional archery is simple and when the penny dropped with me about static and dynamic spine it put me on the right track straight away. That's the main reason I shoot lighter bows these days, instead of going to heavier bows as I had done for twenty years I have been shooting much better balanced arrows for the bows I am using.
Sparra, you can taper the last 6-9 inches of the shaft or you can taper both ends of he arrow which is what I prefer or if you like you can taper the whole shaft form broadhead to nock, I haven't tried this yet but I will for my next hunting trip. I have made bamboo arrows in the past whichare naturally tapered and they worked really well. I find that tapered shafts leave the bow more cleanly and having more weight up front will give more penetration....Glenn...

[ed]

Thanks Glenn, you actually made it sound simple :)

I will have to play around a bit with it. First thing I have to do is reduce the length of my arrows I think as they extend three inches past the back of the bow. I still want some room as I don't want to change length when using a broadhead - three quarters an inch enough?

Was at a paper round at Southern Field Archers today and notice my arrows were fishtailing (worsened by high winds too) and so will have to look at paper testing methods etc. It would put the point of contact out by up to four inches they were that sideways!

At 12grains per pound of draw weight I get an arrow of around 800 grains. They drop pretty quickly it seems when shooting at 30m or longer. Probably unneccesary to be that heavy, might look to more around 700 total weight.

Sorry to annoy but here is a question, is there a rough formula for total arrow weight to broadhead weight for best flight? Is it entirely variable to the bow?

Ed

[Glenn]

Three inches is alot to have out past the back of the bow especially wih your long draw, three quaters of an inch should be alright.
Not sure about the formula but it wouldn't be very helpful because the different broadhead weights effect the dynamic spine of the arrow. There are so many varaibles with arrows, it's like the spine charts they are only a rough guide at best, I have never paid too much attention to them, you have to let the bow tell you what it wants for an arrow. For my selfbows that have no sight window cut into them I will shoot a 30#-35# shaft out of a 50# bow for them to hit where I am looking.
Come to think of it Kev Whiting put out a very good chart back in the seventies for matching broadhead weight, arrow weight and spine to your draw lenght, it's the best one I have ever seen, I think you can still get it through ABA...Glenn...

[ed]

thanks Glenn, I will look into the ABA chart as some of the local club people are members.

I will fiddle around a bit with the arrows, and get them all spined properly (some variance in the bought ones), matched for weight etc. Not keen to go back to carbons, will only do it if I have to in the short term.

[Arra Slinger]

Thanks fellas ill go get some woods to try now


Ben